Obélix
Monday brunch, as this excellent French bistro in River North calls that day’s midday meal, comes with a bubbly benefit: half-price bottles of Champagne. It has another thing going for it, too. While Obélix looks like a modern spot for hushed business meetings, situated in a nondescript downtown building, it’s actually relaxed and unpretentious, the kind of place business people go to escape uptight offices.
The food is classic French with a few creative touches. A beautifully composed pâté en croûte was made with wild boar and duck, while a generous Lyonnaise salad was topped with a duck egg, crisp duck confit and duck fat croutons. This being brunch, Obélix offered deviations from the standard fare, like merguez served as a hot dog and Korean-style fried chicken on a burger bun, with excellent frites.
The wine list is almost entirely French and contains predictably expensive Burgundies, Bordeaux and other trophies. But it also offers plenty of bottles under $100, including some gems, like a 2020 Brézème from Éric Texier, an excellent syrah from the Côtes-du-Rhône, and a 2019 Domaine de Galouchey Vin de Jardin, a delicious natural Bordeaux. And if you come midday Monday, Champagne is a treat and a great value.
700 North Sedgwick Street, obelixchicago.com.
The Village at Italian Villages
Even if you’ve never been to the Village in the Loop, you most likely know the genre. Sinatra ate there. So did Capone. At nearly a century old, covered with photos of celebrities of the past, it’s the sincere incarnation of the sort of place Carbone was meant to parody and augment.
The wine list, however, is enormous and astounding. You will not find cutting edge Italian wines here, but you will see deep reserves of Italian classics here, including older vintages of Brunellos, Barolos and Super Tuscans, a label coined in the 1980s for top Tuscan wines that did not conform to appellation rules.
